The
word
Khaosan in Thai means rice, this use
to be a place where rice is sold (uncooked) that's where the
name came from. Now it is the gate way for economy class tourist
where cheap accommodations and active night life is offered.
The night life in Khaosan is very lively from cheap street
side restaurants to large establishments. The ambiance is quite
unique a mixture of foreign tourist and young locals in a present
day street side Bangkok setting with international music.
Many services are offered here from hair beads services to
10 baht Padthai (Thai stir fried noodles).
It is a nice place for people watching. It is a gathering place
of people from all over the world. People from each country
with different culture and background are unique. If you are
an observer you will see a behavior pattern which will identify
the origin of people from each country. Just sit have a beer
and relax enjoy watching the world go by.
Khao San is Thailand's famous backpacker ghetto.
Out in the street, young travelers nurse beers at plastic
tables, while others line up at food stalls to sample sliced
pineapple, vegetarian noodles and banana pancakes. Tuk-tuk
drivers hail passengers at the corner, while Indian tailors
pace the sidewalk in front of their stores, chanting their
standard mantra ("Sir, try a suit. Very good price,
sir."). Sidewalk vendors hawk jewelry and cigarette
lighters, bootleg tapes and fake press passes; storefront
vendors sell souvenirs ranging from Nepalese jackets to
Balinese masks to novelty T-shirts that read "SEX INSTRUCTOR
(First Lesson Free)."
In the alleys, uncertain dogs jog through the shadows, unowned
and omnipresent. Placards advertise tattoo parlors and laundry
services, traditional massages and hemp-fiber clothing. Colorful
stickers on travel agency windows advertise bus and ferry
services to Phuket, Ko Samui, Ko Phi Phi and Chiang Mai. Backpackers
crowd into dingy Internet cafes to check their Hotmail accounts
and surf the Web for travel updates, while suspiciously healthy-looking
kids prowl the street with small cards that read "I want
to go to school. Please give me 10 Baht." Video movie
noises rumble out from open-front restaurants, blasting that
time-honored Hollywood litany of screams and explosions, of
people calling each other bastards and sons of bitches.
Everyone who lives or travels in Thailand, it seems, has
their own assessment of what Khao San Road represents. Local
Thais, whose opinions are fueled by a sensationalistic press,
consider Khao San Road a place of drugs and licentiousness,
of freaks and cheapskates. Bangkok expats dismiss Khao San
Road as host to a steady rotation of unwashed cretins who
call each other "dude" and sit around comparing
tattoos. Upscale tourists avoid the place as instinctively
as they would seedy neighborhoods in their own hometowns.

But perhaps the harshest critics of Khao San Road are the
backpack travelers themselves, who consider the place a
watered-down version of Asia -- a tie-dyed front for conveyor-belt
tourism, an insipid gathering place for pseudo-hippies and
hipster wannabes. "The Khao San Road scene is way too
clich? for my taste," a young traveler was overheard
while confiding to her friend. They were both sitting in
a cafe on Khao San Road at the time.
In reality,
Khao San Road is a place that
slithers inside its own stereotype. As Alex Garland wrote
in "The Beach", the novel on which the movie "The
Beach" is based,
Khao San Road is "a
decompression chamber for those about to leave or enter Thailand;
a halfway house between the East and the West."
Khao
San Road is not designed to be a static, aesthetic
part of Thailand, but a pragmatic duty-free zone -- a neutral
territory that has learned to continually reinvent itself
in the image of what young budget travelers want.
Khao San is probably the best known and
most visited street in Bangkok.. . . . if your a foreigner.
If you are a native of Bangkok the chances are that you
have never been there and have no desire to ever go there.
( Unless you and your friends like to amuse yourselves for
a few hours by gawping at impolitely dressed farang travellers
going about the serious business of discovering Thai culture
whilst enjoying one of the best banana pancakes this side
of Saigon. )


Khao San road itself is around 100 years
old. The first hotel to open in the area was the Viengtai,
on nearby Rambuttri raod. This was opened in the 1960s and
is now run by the first owner's grand-daughter. She can
remember when the first backpackers appeared in the area
in the early 1970s. Legend has it that a group of enterprising
Australian students who, having no money for a hotel, came
to an arrangement with some local home owners to rent rooms
for short periods whenever they passed through Bangkok.
Word quickly spread along the hippie trail and soon cheap
guesthouses and restaurants catering to backpackers began
opening at the police station end of the road. By the early
80's Kabul, one of the original 3K's ( Kuta - Bali, Katmandu
- Nepal, Kabul - Afghanistan ) of the Hippie Trail had been
replaced by Khao San. Development went
ahead at a rapid pace - every building was converted into
a guesthouse, restaurant, souvenir shop, travel agent or
mini-mart.
Rooms in guesthouses consisted of hastily partitioned windowless
cubicles - it was boom time for chipboard manufacturers
in Bangkok. However, one problem remained - the trade was
still very seasonal. Depending on the time of year Khao
San road could be deserted or overflowing.
Forward in time to the mid 80s, the cost of international
flights has come down dramatically, it is becoming normal
to take a year off and travel the world. Farang friendly
Thailand is leading the way in providing a haven for international
bright young things on a US$15 a day budget. Development
spreads to the small alleys leading of Khao San
and encompasses neighboring streets. Khao
San is no longer considered one of the last resting
places of die hard hippies. A new style of bar, shop and
restaurant start to appear - they are no longer cheap and
cheerful, they're modern, clean, sanitized and westernized
for Generation X.


The present day - people who first stayed in Khao
San 10 years ago can hardly recognize the place
today, so much has changed since. As the wealth of young
travelers have increased so has their demand for modern
amenities - air-conditioned rooms, internet access, pay
by Visa card, 24 hour western food etc. While it is still
possible to rent a chipboard partitioned cell most budget
jetsetters now prefer well ventilated accommodation that
is free from stained mattresses and cockroaches.
Three years ago there was only one internet cafe - Hello
cafe, now there are over a dozen. There is a Boot's chemist
and a Seven Eleven now ( and Pizza Hut is just around the
corner ). Close your eyes and you could be in Tel Aviv judging
by the overwhelming voices coming from the large number
of Israeli's with backpacks the size of a VW Beetle strapped
to their backs.